This small Christmas Market, tucked in the trees, with the train trestle going overhead, live music and only handmade goods, is far and a way my favourite of any I have visited in Germany. Which means, that every year on the weekend nearest my birthday, I drag my family on the two and a half hour drive, and we enjoy a lovely few hours in the market, and hiking along the trail that runs through the gorge.
This year has been warmer and drier than most, and there in the Black Forest, the market that normally has at least a foot of packed snow, was on dry land, with just a few random patches of ice and snow along the trail. It was still a lovely evening though.
There is no town at the entrance to the gorge, but there is a small collection of shops and one hotel, whose restrooms are open for market attendees. NOTE: you can park at one of two nearby towns and take a free shuttle bus in, or pay online ahead of time to reserve a three hour parking spot right there. We were more than happy to pay 5 Euro for the ease of parking onsite, and three hours really is enough for this small market.
Here are some photos of the entry area:
The entry to the market is on a path that runs around behind the hotel, off on the left hand side.
The region is known for its goats; there is always a goat drawn sleigh in the hotel courtyard for children to ride in.
One of the peculiarities of this market is that it has an entry fee. It is a reasonable 3 euro per adult, kids under 18 are free, and the 5 euro parking fee includes entry for one person. As soon as you round the corner of the hotel and start down the path towards the market and payment area, you see the train trestle rising above the gorge:
I WAS disappointed in the lack of snow. I think I need to lodge a complaint with Mother Nature: my aunt had several inches of snow on her porch in Fort Worth, Texas, and yet here, in the Black Forest was bare ground?! On the bright side, no snow meant it would be easy to hike quite a way on the trail, further than we have been able to go before. We headed straight there to get some hiking in before sunset. The trail heads off from between a break in the stalls at the back of the market. The lowest section is sanded (when there is snow) and lit by colored lights and called the fairy tale path, but the real beauty is higher up. This summer we hope to go for a day and hike the whole thing. We got to see quite a bit of it this year, and it really is lovely.
We turned back at just the right time, and were arriving back in the market area right as it got dark out. Isn't the train bridge lovely all lit up at night?
Most of the goods (all handmade for this market) are on the uphill side (back) and the food is on the downhill side. In between, running at the bast of the trestle are the band and a few more stalls, including a wood fired oven making flammkuchen. There are some more unique food offerings here, including many goat cheeses and goat sausages, and freshly melted (raclette style) cheese served on baguettes sliced longways, with or without ham.
After shopping for a while, and warming by one of the many campfires and burning logs, we stuffed ourselves full of flammkuchen (sort of like a very flat pizza with a sour cream based sauce, from the Alsace region) crepes, raclette, and more, and sipped hot caipirinha's (a drink I have only seen at this one place, but I fully admit to preferring it to the traditional mulled wine. This is the one and only market from which David drives home instead of me, so I can enjoy this tart treat).
We did notice that there were quite a few more attendees this year (and last year was more than the previous). I think word is getting out about this idyllic little market. It's also likely that the dry roads and clear weather contributed to the large number of visitors this year. Even with the crowds, this market is well worth a visit though.
--Hadley
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