On Friday I met up with a friend for a stroll through Mannheim's market. Mannheim is just down the road from us and very easy to get to, so I visit their market every year. The main section of the Mannheim market is around the water tower with several "spokes" coming out from that central figure, each lined with shops. Food is mostly in the center and at the end of each spoke with shopping in between--and one line of carnival style rides for the kids.
I always enjoy Mannheim's market. Its vibe is more commercial than any of the other markets I visit (which fits the new, modern town of Mannheim quite well, really. The water tower is one of very few things that was not demolished in the war--so for the most part Mannheim is lacking in the old world charm found in so much of Germany).
Both the main, water tower, section of the market as well as the smaller added market near the Englehorn department store just a few blocks away are focused much more heavily on shopping than other markets (more merchandise, less food and music) and the items available are much more mass produced and cheaply made than in many other places (there is a huge variety,some really nice hand made or higher quality mass produced items stuff but also quite a few stalls selling cheap plastic trophies, run of the mill t-shirts like you might see in a K Mart back in the states, etc).
In just the past couple of years Mannheim has begun to expand the market up into more of the downtown shopping area. They've added an ice rink and some food stands in the big square near the Abendakadamie tram stop. I actually had the best Kinderpunch (non alcoholic gluhwein for the kids, or drivers) that I have ever had there: a really good, slightly sour, warm punch with hints of raspberry and cranberry juices--not your typical slightly bitter low quality bottled junk. Mmmmm. I may go back later this season just for more punch while watching the skaters.
And in Paradepltz a few more food vendors, a handful of more handcrafted wares and a cute little "fairy tale land" have been added:
The polar opposite of Mannheim's modern, straight lines, is the little walled city of Michelstadt. Some of you may recall a blog post from 2013 when Dave, Marika and I visited and Easter Egg fair there. I was wanting to find a slightly smaller town without all the crowds, googled to see if they have a market--and of course they do! So, yesterday David and I drove about an hour, up into the Oldenwald to get to this adorable little village once again---and OH am I ever happy we did.
I still love how you park out in the newer, more modern area and then go through the wall into the heart of the little town. I always feel like Alice falling down the rabbit hole, being transported somewhere so different so quickly. (note: they were well organized and directed people into large parking lots--there was a 2.50€ fee for parking, well worth it, and very close to the action. There were also clean, nice toilets there at the lot for 30 cents each, and many more, all well labled in town--a definite plus for this market).
After a warming cup of mulled wine we spent a couple of hours just wandering the lovely little streets. Vendors and food are spread around. There are a lot of hand made items, and many more locally made, as well as some mass produced but more unique to markets items. Many of the food vendors were local clubs raising money, which I love. Large, hand carved wooden statues and other decor are sprinkled liberally throughout as well. This market has the perfect combination of small town and local feel but still large enough to be appealing to tourists and worth trekking out to.
(it is hard to tell in the photo but these statues are 4-5 feet tall)
(these weird "garden worms" are at all the markets this year. They're just, um, yeah, no thanks)
As we headed out, a brass band was just getting started in the central square--playing a good mix of well known Christmas carols. We stopped and whiled away another half hour or so sipping wine (and cola) and munching on kartofelpuffers (latkes) while enjoying the music. The only thing that could have possibly made it more magical would have been if mother nature had gotten involved and graced us with a snow storm.
Just before heading back out the wall and into reality, we passed under an arch festooned with mistletoe. I don't think I've ever actually stood under the mistletoe before! (and, yes, David kissed me, but there was no one there to take a photo of that)
After dinner yesterday we headed out for one last, and also completely different "Christmas Market" Our little suburb only runs their market for one weekend. It is called a "Weinachtsmarkt" and there are 3 stalls selling items made by local vendors (two with jewelry and one with hand knit items), but what it really is is a town party that is held in the winter time. It's held on the same square as the summer time Stadtfest--and all the same veriens (clubs) come out and sell food and drink as fundraisers. So, there are three stands to shop at and about 20 to get a drink or snack at. A local carnival company also brings in a ride, candy hut and carnival style game to entertain kids.
(post box set up just for letters to Santa)
I wasn't able to get very good photos in the dark, but I think you can tell that practically the whole town comes out (in 6 years we have never seen our landlady at a town party--these days I am happy for that!). This "market" is all about just hanging out with your neighbors and chatting and drinking and enjoying a bit of community. During the daytime various activities happened on the stage area, including St Nickolas talking to kids and handing out bags of treats up until 7:00 pm.
At 7:00 the band came on. They've gotten someone new and I hope city officials notice how popular these guys were and get them back for summer. Three guys, two guitars and a drum set, beautiful voices, good music selection and just knowing how to work a crowd and clearly loving what they were doing all added up to the best live band I have seen in years and several hundred people still hanging around and cheering and asking for more as the stalls all shut down at 10:00. City officials let them play another half hour (and they willing did--I really don't know how voices last so long, especially in cold air) and the square was still packed when they finally had to shut down. What a perfect way to end the night.
It's Sunday--which means I can drag David to at least one more market today. So, they'll probably be more pictures and more gushing about all things Christmas in the next post as well.
Happy Holiday!
--Hadley
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